THE TIREE COTTAR CASE

A case was tried in Oban Sheriff Court on 15 November 1889 pitting the Duke of Argyll against the cottar Charles MacLean, who had built a small house on the Heanish common grazing without permission. MacLean claimed that he was entitled to build the house because he was a fisherman. He lost. But the details of the case throw up some intruiging points of law, and provide a new perspective on emigration. The case also shines a light on what it was like to be poor in 1889, as you tried to fight against one of the largest landowners in Scotland.

‘This is an action to have the defender removed from a hut [small house] which he had erected without the [Duke’s] consent on part of the common of Heanish near the shore. The defence is that the right to erect this hut is conferred by [the White Herring Fisheries Act of 1771] which is still in force [it was repealed in 2009], and enacts for the encouragement of the White Herring Fishery that, “all and every person or persons employed in the said fisheries may fish in any part of the British seas, and shall have, and exercise, the free use of all ports, harbours, shores, and forelands, in Great Britain or islands belonging to the Crown of Great Britain, below the highest water mark, and for the space of one hundred yards [inland], of any waste or uncultivated lands … for landing their nets, casks, and other materials, utensils and stores, and for erecting tents, huts and stages, and for the landing, pickling, curing and reloading their fish, and in drying their nets without paying any foreland or other dues or any other sum or sums of money or other consideration whatsoever for such liberty.” [This law presumably allowed fishermen from Aberdeen to set up a fishing station at The Green in Kilmoluaig without the need for permission from the estate.]

‘ln order to succeed in this defence, it was necessary that the defender should prove that he is a person employed in the fisheries referred to in the Act, and also that the hut is erected, and used for purposes connected with the said fisheries; and further that the ground on which it is built is waste or uncultivated.

‘[Charles MacLean] is about seventy years of age. [He is likely to have been born in 1819 in Scarinish. His father was Hector and mother Christina.] He went to Australia forty years ago when he was thirty. He was there engaged first at farm work and then at the diggings. After that he was engaged with a surveying party, and afterwards he was one of the crew of a schooner. He was about twenty-four years in Australia, and on his return to Tiree he rented a house from the [Duke] at Heanish, in which he lived for three months, and then went back to Australia. He was there for about eighteen months, and again returned to Heanish and applied for the house he had formerly there. In about a year he got it, staying in the meantime with a widowed sister at Scarinish. He remained in that house until last Whitsunday, when he gave it up of his own accord, and because he could not afford to pay the rent, as is shewn by his letter which is produced. Another cottage was then offered to him at a rent of £1, which he refused, and in May last built the hut referred to, and went to live in it with his wife and family. It was their sole residence for the next three months, and at last his wife got into bad health, and he had to remove with his family to Scarinish, where he now lives in lodgings, but he occupies the hut as a store. From this history, it will be seen that the defender’s real object in building this hut was not that it might be used solely for the purpose of, and in connection with, the fishery as contemplated by the Act, but that he might live in it rent free as a squatter on the [Duke’s] lands. He has a boat, and does occasionally fish, and has cured and sold fish, as is the case with most of the inhabitants living near the shore in Tiree; but he does not live by his fishing or prosecute it in any systematic way … He had no herring nets till about six months ago. His boat was not registered until [the case was about to start], and the first time he went to fish for herring was about eight days before the [case started], when he went out with the witnesses John Sinclair and Donald MacKinnon to a place where he had never seen herring fished for or nets set before, and, as was to be expected, no fish was caught.

‘It would therefore be going much farther than is justified by the evidence to describe the defender as a person employed in the said fisheries, and it is impossible to avoid coming to the conclusion that all he has done in the way of herring fishing was with a view to the defence in this action, and to give some appearance of plausibility to the pretext that he has erected this hut under the powers contained in the statute.

‘Again, if the defender claims the right to the use of land belonging to the [Duke] on account of its being waste or uncultivated ground, it would be expected that he should produce evidence on this point; but there is nothing beyond his own statement that, “the hut is erected on level ground alongside the rock. It is not cultivated land, and never was cultivated.” The common of Heanish, on which the hut is built, is so far uncultivated that it is only used for grazing; but important information as to the nature of the ground is got from the [Duke’s] witnesses. Mr MacDiarmid [the factor] says that “the hut is built on ground under good grass on the common of Heanish, and has good grass surrounding it.” … John MacDonald, one of the Heanish tenants, says, “the hut is built on a good piece of grass on the common. It is on a dry part of the common, which is on that account good for wintering sheep.” … We must refuse to apply the term “waste or uncultivated” to it, and it must be held that the [Duke] is entitled to be protected in his property.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 16 November 1889, p. 5)

Dr John Holliday

The president of the Tiree Association between 1928 and 1931 was Hugh Alexander Low of 33 Woodend Drive, Jordanhill. His mother Jessie MacFadyen was from Barrapol. Born in Kinning Park, he worked as a surveyor, and played a part in the development of the Knightswood housing scheme in 1923.

He was very active during his term of office. He organised the first flight to Tiree in 1929 to coincide with Tiree Association Sports Day on The Reef.

https://www.aniodhlann.org.uk/?s=2000.229.1
The first plane to land on Tiree in 1929.

The Glasgow Tiree Association are making arrangements for a dramatic entertainment to be given in the Atheneum Theatre, Glasgow, on Thursday 26th and Friday 27th February, the proceeds to be devoted to the development of the nursing services in Tiree. Through the good offices of the President, Mr Hugh Alexander Low, F.F.S. [Fellow of the Faculty of Surveyors], the Albany Players and The Quest will present ‘What it is to be young’’, a comedy in three acts, by James Bridie. The office-bearers of the Association are to be congratulated in their efforts to popularise drama among the Highlanders of Glasgow, and the proposed entertainment should make a strong appeal to Highlanders and their friends. Vouchers for reserved seats and tickets for unreserved seats may be had from Mr Hugh Alexander Low. (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser 14 February 1931, 2)

https://www.aniodhlann.org.uk/object/2017-21-2/
The Tiree Association committee around 1930.

The munificence of Mr Hugh Alexander Low in endowing a ‘Tiree Bed’ in the Glasgow Western Infirmary, particulars of which were reported in last week’s issue, gives further proof of this gentleman’s interest in the welfare of Tiree and its people. This action is quite in keeping with the spirit of generosity that marks this public-spirited citizen. The donor dedicates his gift in memory of his parents, the late William and Jessie MacFadyen Low. His work on behalf of improved transport and his efforts to popularise the Highlands as offering unequalled attraction for holiday-makers are but a few of his many services which would help not only to benefit the Western Isles, but likewise the whole of our Scottish Highlands. Mr Low’s magnificent work in Highland causes is well known, and his very successful period of office as President of the Glasgow Tiree Association put that organisation in the forefront of our Highland Societies. Many people have much reason to be grateful to him for the uplift given to the study of Gaelic by the presentation in recent years of interesting dramatic themes bearing on Highland life. He contributed generously in this way. In such matters, Mr Low has been a pioneer. His latest act of kindness has been favourably commented upon as a worthy example of altruism among our citizens … Mr Low’s term of three years as President of the Tiree Association will remain a memorable epoch in its history. (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 6 June 1931, 2)

We have to remind our Glasgow readers of the lecture entitled ‘A Trip to South Africa’ to be given by Mr Hugh Alexander Low to the members and friends of the Tiree Association in the Engineers’ Institute on 10th February. Mr Low, when on tour, met many Highlanders, and, being desirous of letting his Glasgow friends benefit by his itinerary, he took note of many items of interest which has enabled him to prepare a lecture which we have no doubt will attract a large gathering. The lecture will be illustrated by limelight views [a magic lantern]. (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 6 February 1932, 2)

Mr Neil MacDonald, Convener of the School, presided at the closing meeting, the feature of which was the distribution of prizes gifted by Mr Hugh Alexander Low. Mr Low’s generosity is greatly appreciated by pupils, parents and staff. (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 8 July 1933, 2)

Hugh Alexander Low died in 1934 at the age of 51. The 2/4 march ‘Hugh Alexander Low of Tiree’ by Hugh Campbell is widely played today.

A meeting of the [Tiree] Agricultural Show Committee was held at Scarinish … As the meeting was the first general one since February of last year, the members expressed their deep sense of loss at the death of their esteemed patron, Mr Hugh Alexander Low … Mr Low had taken a keen interest in, and had been a tower of strength to, the Show, and by his passing the whole island had lost a sincere and true friend. It was resolved to convey the committee’s deepest sympathy to Mrs Low. (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 23 February 1935, 6)

Dr John Holliday

AN COMUNN TIRISDEACH THE TIREE ASSOCIATION

Proposed Tiree Association (1901)

‘It is proposed to form a Tiree Association in Glasgow, where many of the islanders reside, and all favourable to the project are invited to communicate with Mr Neil Campbell Colquhoun, 30, Couper Street. A public meeting will be convened shortly, and duly announced, and it is hoped that all natives of Tiree will respond with heartiness, and assure the success of the movement.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 2 March 1901, 5)

FORMATION OF TIREE ASSOCIATION
Enthusiastic Meeting

‘For some time past, the formation of a Glasgow Tiree Association has been under consideration. It was by many natives of the island felt that the representation of their island home in the city was, if not a necessity, at least a most desirable thing, and at the recent Tiree Bazaar the need of such an association was made apparent. In other matters it has also been believed that Tiree would benefit were it, like so many other places, to have an association of its sons in Glasgow to keep a watchful eye on its interests. While general agreement was thus held as to the desirability of the association itself, matters advanced no further until the initiative was taken by Messrs Neil Campbell Colquhoun and Mr Neil MacLaine, both well-known in the city as enthusiastic Highlanders—the former in connection with the Clan Colquhoun Society, of which he is hon. secretary and treasurer, and the latter in connection with the Clan MacLean and Cèilidh nan Gàidheal. A meeting called by those gentlemen took place in the Religious Institution Rooms [at 177 Buchanan Street] on Thursday evening, 14th inst., and was well attended, the hall being completely full. The objects of the meeting were briefly explained by Mr Colquhoun, and thereafter Mr Neil MacLaine was called upon to take the chair. The meeting being unanimous as to the desirability of forming an association in which the natives of Tiree would be interested, it was decided to carry out the purposes for which the meeting had been called, and office bearers were nominated. A telegram was received from Tiree expressing cordial approval of the proposed association, and wishing every success to the movement. Office-bearers were then nominated.

‘The meeting was most enthusiastic throughout, a fact which augurs well for the future of the infant association. In a week’s time the directors are to meet and prepare rules, etc., for the government of the association, and shortly thereafter, it is expected, a second meeting of the natives will be called. Besides the promoters of the meeting—Messrs Colquhoun and MacLaine—the thanks of those interested are due to Mr Alex. MacKinnon, 74 Hyndland Street, who occupied the office of interim secretary, and discharged the duties in an efficient manner, adding greatly to the dispatch of the business before the meeting.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 23 March 1901, 2)

The Association’s first concert and dance was held in April 1901 at the Waterloo Rooms. (This was a popular venue in a former church at the corner of Waterloo and Wellington Streets. It was demolished and replaced in 1910 by the Alhambra Theatre.) Within a month of the association’s formation, there were 70 members. (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 4 May 1901, 2)

The Tiree Association went on to set up a sports day (1902) and regatta (1903) on the island during Fair Fortnight, collected funds for and erected the war memorial, and published the Roll of Honour after the First World War. The Association also published an important collection of Tiree songs Na Bàird Thirisdeach.

‘Under the auspices of the Glasgow Tiree Association, sports are to be held on the Island of Tiree on Tuesday first, Mr Thomas Barr having kindly granted the use of the grounds at the Reef. A concert is to be held on Wednesday at Balemartine in aid of the prize fund of the sports; while on the 24th July a handicap race for fishing skiffs will be held off Scarinish, followed in the evening by another concert. All the events are open to the natives of Tiree and Coll and the members of the Association. In conjunction with the sports, a tug-of-war team has been training in the grounds of the Govan police for some time. The team has been brought together by Mr Hector MacFadyen. (Highland News, 18 July 1903, 5)

https://www.aniodhlann.org.uk/object/2019-33-2/
Katie MacPhail and her postman husband Lachlan MacPhail at the Tiree Association Sports Day on The Reef in 1931.

The Association also ran regular meetings in Glasgow to bring together the Tiree community in the city:

‘There was a large attendance at the monthly meeting of [the Tiree] Association held last Thursday evening in the Waterloo Rooms, Mr Hector MacFadyen presiding. A Gaelic debate took place on ‘Whether is it better to be married or single?’ Mr Neil MacLaine led off in favour of ‘married life’, while Mr Hector Cameron defended single-blessedness. After a long debate, in which many of the members took part, the vote was taken, when 22 voted in favour of married life, and 21 supported single life. A number of songs were afterwards rendered.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 13 December 1902, 2)

Dr John Holliday

Yesterday’s News

We are lucky to have such a good Youth Work Programme on Tiree. These 75-year-old reports show that youth and social clubs have a long history on the island. You may recognise the names of some of those involved.

1950

COMMUNITY CENTRE: The first Open Night held by the recently formed Community Centre in the Youth House was highly successful and well supported by young folk and adults from all parts of the island. Dr D. G. Hunter [the island’s GP] gave an interesting and helpful paper, and later took the lead in a short and profitable discussion. Table tennis, draughts etc. were popular with folk of all ages, while for others there were sewing and knitting activities. It is hoped to form a handicraft section under Mrs Stevenson, and a Badminton Group is also to be formed. Dancing and tea followed.

DISCUSSION GROUP: The fortnightly meeting of the group took the form of a debate on whether the establishment of industries would arrest West Highland de-population. The chair for the evening was taken by Mr N. Buchanan, and the affirmative and negative leaders were Mr Alex. MacLean and Mr J. Galt [the Coop manager] respectively. Points were well made on both sides, and a ready discussion focussed much helpful attention on an issue of vital importance to the West. There was a marked emphasis on the need for further development of the industries already present and traditional in the area, but it was the majority view that the establishment of appropriate new industries would be of much help.

AN COMUNN [Gàidhealach, the organisation behind the Mòd]: The Cornaig Branch of An Comunn held its opening Ceilidh recently. When the night had begun with the rallying song [Oran Tionail by Niall Ros], the chairman of the branch, who was Fear-an-Tighe for the evening, outlined the work that the branch hoped to cover during the winter, and thereafter a night of Gaelic song and story, with first class instrumental selections from Mr C. MacLean, was enjoyed. The Ladies’ Committee saw to the provision of the usual cup of tea. Those who contributed to the night’s entertainment were Miss Morag MacDonald, and Messrs J. Henderson, A. H. MacPhail, L. Brown, H. A. MacArthur, Angus MacDonald, M. Black, A. C. MacDougall, and N. Buchanan.

(Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 9 December 1950, 2)

2007.21.1

Pupils from Cornaig School on a school trip to Oban in 1945 for the Argyll Inter-School Games. L–R: Donald MacKay, Skye; Joe MacLeod, Balemartine; Alasdair Straker, Balemartine; Colina MacDonald, Mannal; Neil Johnston, Heanish; Neil Sinclair, Balephuil; Patsy MacPhee; Jimmy Curran, Silversands, Vaul; Ina Brown, Balephuil. The pupils were accompanied by teacher Pat Robertson from Scarinish.

1951

COMMUNITY CENTRE: The beetle drive recently held by the Community Centre in the Youth House was well supported, and, after an evening’s fun interrupted only for tea, the winners were as follows: Ladies—Mrs J. Graham and Miss C. MacLean. Gentlemen—Messrs. Stewart and N. Campbell. A large number attended the dance which followed. Music was played by two young local accordionists, H. MacPhee and M. Omand, assisted by H. Campbell, and the duties of M.C. were undertaken by Messrs J. Wilson [the bank manager] and J. Galt.

The Open Nights run by the Community Centre have maintained their popularity with adults of every age, and at their most recent full advantage was taken of the facilities for games and pastimes of all kinds. After tea, the customary lecture period was taken by Mr N. Buchanan, who initiated a short discussion with an interesting talk on “Depopulation and Island Problems”. The ladies’ darts tournament, after keen competition, was won by Mrs P. Robertson, with Miss Margaret MacKinnon as runner-up. During an interval, the opportunity was taken to say farewell to one of the Centre’s most popular and enthusiastic members, Mr A. Eaglesham, who now leaves Tiree on transfer to a banking post in Glasgow. Mr P. Robertson, as chairman, called on Miss Mona MacDonald the secretary to hand over a small token of good wishes, and Mr Eaglesham suitably replied. The dancing corner was then opened for a short time to music supplied by Mr J. Graham [the gamekeeper] assisted by Mrs H. Brown.

JUVENILE FOOTBALL: A welcome indication of an interest in healthy sport was recently given in the football match between the youths of Balemartine and Balephuil on the ground of the former. After a keen tussle, the home team ran out comfortable winners, but Balephuil hope to level matters up in the return match to be played on their pitch.

(Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 3 March 1951, 7)

Dr John Holliday

Hunter’s of Brora

In 1949, this advertisement appeared in the Oban Times:

HUNTER’S WOOL SERVICE
CROFTERS from the Mainland and the Islands of Skye, Tiree, Mull, Islay and Jura, CAN NOW SEND US WOOL FOR KNITTING YARN if they have obtained Licences from the Wool Control. Price List and Patterns free on request.
T. M. HUNTER, LTD.
BRORA
Specialists in the Manufacture of Wool
(Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 11 June 1949, 6)

Thomas Hunter had founded the Sutherland Wool Mill in Wick in 1901, soon relocating south to Brora on the Sutherland coast. The family also ran a brickworks, the Brora Colliery, and the Brora Electric Supply Company, making it the first town north of Inverness to have electric street lighting. After wool prices fell in the 1970s due to the rise of synthetics, the company closed in 1993.

Although Tiree was more famous for its barley, modern sheep breeds were introduced to the island around 1840, and large sheep farms were established in Hynish, Heylipol, and Hough. In 1911, the island’s census listed five professional “yarn spinners”, five “stocking knitters”, two “handloom weavers” and four “retired hand-loom weavers (tweed)”. By 1921, following the disruption of the First World War, there were none.

Tiree crofters increasingly turned to factories on the mainland to process their wool. Most chose Hunter’s of Brora. In 1952, crofters were encouraged:

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR WOOL: SEND IT TO BRORA
For manufacture into blankets, bedcovers, travelling rugs, tweeds, knitting yarns and weaving yarns. Wool Control Licence still required for Fleece Wool and Gathered Wool.
T. M. HUNTER LTD. BRORA
Specialists in the manufacture of wool
(North Star and Farmers’ Chronicle, 15 March 1952, 6)

Armies use a lot of wool, for uniforms, overcoats and blankets. In 1916 a body called Wool Control was set up, compelling sheep farmers to sell all their wool to approved merchants at prices set by government. Between the wars, regulations were relaxed, and crofters became free to sell their wool on the open market. But Wool Control was re-established in 1939 under the Ministry of Supply.

This structure continued after the war. Conflict had prevented wool exporters in the southern hemisphere from moving their stocks. In 1945, representatives from Britain, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa met to discuss how to deal with this stockpile, estimated to be twelve years’ worth. The British Wool Marketing Board was set up in 1950, and licences were abolished soon after.

2005.79.2

Red and blue woven blanket made at Hunter’s of Brora with wool from A’ Chreag Ghlas, Balevullin.

As well as selling their wool, Tiree crofters also sent their clip to Hunter’s for it to be spun into knitting wool or woven into blankets. This was then returned to the crofter. An Iodhlann has several blankets made in Brora from Tiree wool. This was sometimes referred to as “drugget”. This is an old Scots word for coarse, woven material, coming from the French drogue meaning something that is of poor quality.

About “Drugget”

Druggett or drugget is “a coarse woollen fabric felted or woven, self-coloured or printed one side”. Jonathan Swift refers to being “in druggets drest, of thirteen pence a yard”.

Formerly, a drugget was a sort of cheap stuff, very thin and narrow, usually made of wool, or half wool and half silk or linen; it may have been corded but was usually plain. The term is now applied to a coarse fabric having a cotton warp and a wool filling, used for rugs, tablecloths, etc.

Etymology: droguet, from drogue (“cheap”), of uncertain origin. “A thing which is of poor quality.”
First known use: 1564.
[O.Sc. drog(g)at, drog(g)et, from 1564, Fr. droguet.]

Dr John Holliday

Tiree’s Pink Marble and the Geologists who made it Famous
An An Iodhlann research paper
William Welstead
15 November 2025

http://www.aniodhlann.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/marble-history.pdf

HUNTER’S OF BRORA

In 1949, this advertisement appeared in the Oban Times:

HUNTER’S WOOL SERVICE
CROFTERS from the Mainland and the Islands of Skye, Tiree, Mull, Islay and Jura, CAN NOW SEND US WOOL FOR KNITTING YARN if they have obtained Licences from the Wool Control. Price List and Patterns free on request.
T. M. HUNTER, LTD.
BRORA
Specialists in the Manufacture of Wool
(Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 11 June 1949, 6)

Thomas Hunter had founded the Sutherland Wool Mill in Wick in 1901, soon relocating south to Brora on the Sutherland coast. The family also ran a brickworks, the Brora Colliery, and the Brora Electric Supply Company, making it the first town north of Inverness to have electric street lighting. After wool prices fell in the 1970s due to the rise of synthetics, the company closed in 1993.

Although Tiree was more famous for its barley, modern sheep breeds were introduced to the island around 1840, and large sheep farms were established in Hynish, Heylipol, and Hough. In 1911, the island’s census listed five professional ‘yarn spinners’, five ‘stocking knitters’, two ‘handloom weavers’ and four ‘retired hand-loom weavers (tweed)’. By 1921, following the disruption of the First World War, there were none. Tiree crofters increasingly turned to factories on the mainland to process their wool. Most chose Hunter’s of Brora. In 1952, crofters were encouraged:

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR WOOL: SEND IT TO BRORA
For manufacture into blankets, bedcovers, travelling rugs, tweeds, knitting yarns and weaving yarns. Wool Control Licence still required for Fleece Wool and Gathered Wool.
T. M. HUNTER LTD. BRORA
Specialists in the manufacture of wool
(North Star and Farmers’ Chronicle, 15 March 1952, 6)

Armies use a lot of wool, for uniforms, overcoats and blankets. In 1916 a body called Wool Control was set up, compelling sheep farmers to sell all their wool to approved merchants at prices set by government. Between the wars, regulations were relaxed, and crofters became free to sell their wool on the open market. But Wool Control was re-established in 1939 under the Ministry of Supply.

This structure continued after the war. Conflict had prevented wool exporters in the southern hemisphere from moving their stocks. In 1945, representatives from Britain, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa met to discuss how to deal with this stockpile, estimated to be twelve years’ worth. The British Wool Marketing Board was set up in 1950, and licences were abolished soon after.

2005.79.2
Red and blue woven blanket made at Hunter’s of Brora with wool from A’ Chreag Ghlas, Balevullin.

As well as selling their wool, Tiree crofters also sent their clip to Hunter’s for it to be spun into knitting wool or woven into blankets. This was then returned to the crofter. An Iodhlann has several blankets made in Brora from Tiree wool. This was sometimes referred to as ‘drugget’. This is an old Scots word for coarse, woven material, coming from the French drogue meaning something that is of poor quality.

Dr John Holliday

Storm Amy, the first storm of the season, hit northern and western Europe on 3 and 4 October 2025. According to the Met Office, ‘this was an unusually severe, although not unprecedented, storm for the month of October.’ The strongest wind speed, a gust of 139 mph, was recorded in southern Norway.

We looked at some storm stories in February, but here are some more. Duncan Grant from Brock told me this one:

‘My grand-uncle Archie MacLeod lived in Brock, and in his old age I remember my aunt talking to him about the night of the Tay Bridge Disaster [28 December 1879]. Their house in Brock was very near to the shore, nearer any of the houses today. And the tide reached the bottom of the ùtraid [croft road] that night, seemingly, and sometime during the storm they had to leave the house and come up to the house where we are, their own relations, MacLeods, there. Uncle Archie would be ten years old then. I remember them saying a strange thing—I never thought much of it, because I heard this as a boy—a barrel flew over their heads … it was said to have come from the manse [in Gott]. And the next day they went down to the house and the chimney stack and walls must have still been there, and the cat had survived the night at the top of the chimney stack.’

In October 1882 there was another storm. Before the days of silage bags, much of the harvest was still lying in the fields:

AN EQUINOCTIAL GALE IN TIREE
‘Not for many years, writes our correspondent, has a storm so damaging in its resuits swept over this island so early in the season, comparatively speaking, as that of Sunday. Since Saturday, a gale from the south-east, although not of an unusual nature here, had been blowing, but had lulled considerably ere nightfall. On Sunday morning, however, the wind rose again from the same quarter, and continued to increase in violence until about four o’clock in the afternoon, when it was a perfect hurricane, reaching its height about dusk, when the wind veered to the south-west. For some time previous to this, people were endeavouring to secure what part of their crops yet remained on the fields in stooks. To do so in most cases proved impossible, however, especially to those whose crofts lay in anything like proximity to the sea. Sheaves of barley, oats and rye were carried through the air like feathers, while hay flew past like so much smoke. Seeing the uselessness of their efforts in the field, the people now betook themselves to their stackyards. Here, fortunately, they were more successful, and, as yet, we have not heard of any who have lost stacks out of their stackyards. From the fields, however, many a stack has been carried away. Of the damage to buildings, we are not yet able to say much. Mrs MacFarlane’s dwelling house at Baluive [sic], and the schoolhouse at Moss [Sgoil na Mòinteach], have been stripped, to a great extent of slates. Mr Hector Lamont’s house at Kirkapol also suffered in this respect, as did also Messrs McQuarrie & Co.’s shop [in Scarinish, on the site of the Coop], which had its skylight window blown, while the building itself received a shaking, Some of Dr Buchanan’s outhouses [Baugh Farm] came in for a share of the damage caused. Of the shipping, the Packet has suffered most, she having narrowly escaped total wreck. As it is, she has lost several planks, and been rendered unserviceable, at least for some time to come. The Go Down has been heavily strained, and will require some repair. At Ruaig, Alexander McLean had a fishing boat driven ashore, and, to some extent, broken.’
(Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 7 October 1882)

Taigh a’ Go Down ‘the house of the ‘Go Down’ was the name of one of the houses along the Sraid Ruadh ‘the red street’ in Balevullin. The equinox, the date when the sun crosses the equator, is around 20 March and 23 September. Although popularly associated with gales, this is not borne out by the evidence.

In September 1886, it was the soldiers sent to the island to quell unrest following from the Greenhill Land Raid who were hit:

GALE IN TIREE
HARDSHIPS OF MARINES
‘Early Tuesday morning, a boisterous gale arose in Tiree. The marines suffered very much, those whose tents were exposed to the gale being washed out, and the poor fellows having to seek shelter in a turf house built some time ago as an “orderly room”. A number of the tents were hauled down today, and after getting the rays of the sun for a few hours, they were again put up. On the orders of Colonel Heriot, a number of the marines are making a temporary house for themselves alongside a sandbank. The house is to be covered with canvas, the floor laid with wood, and should there be a renewal of the gale, the marines can obtain shelter in this house.’
(Aberdeen Evening Express, 3 September 1886, 2)

On 31 January 1953 there was another big storm. Hector MacPhail told this story:

‘During the big gale in 1953, there was a man in Kilmoluaig, you’ll remember him well, Alasdair Eachainn, who was another man who was good at telling stories … and I heard him telling this one myself. He was struggling home from Balevullin in the dark … and a corn stack went past him. A lot of corn stacks were knocked over that night … He said, I was asking around the next day. Who’d lost a corn stack? Nobody had lost one. I reckon it came down from Barra!’

In December 1959 there was another gale. The Fleetwood trawler Red Falcon, the last coal burning boat in the fleet, was returning for Christmas from fishing around Iceland when she was overwhelmed by the seas around Skerryvore:

‘Search parties along the coast of Tiree were looking for survivors from the Fleetwood trawler Red Falcon, missing with her crew of 19 since Monday, yesterday found part of a ship’s grey painted lifeboat. It had been washed ashore near Middleton, on the west coast of the island.’
(The Scotsman, 19 December 1959, 1)

The biggest recorded storm on Tiree was in 1968 with a gust of 117 mph, causing considerable damage around the island:

‘A feature of the month was the severe gale on the night of the 14th-15th, which caused loss of life on land and at sea. There was widespread damage to buildings, glasshouses and woodlands. Wind speeds in gusts rose to 113 miles per hour at Tiree and to 100 in some other places.’
(The Scotsman, 26 February 1968, 12)

2006.123.1 Met. Office tracing of the 1968 storm

Dr John Holliday

The air Road to the Isles is a fascinating one. A flight from Renfrew to Tiree on Tuesday was made in sufficient visibility to glimpse the shining contours of Loch Lomond and to get a magnificent view of the sea lochs and mountains of Argyll.

Holding to a course more to the south than usual against a head wind, the BEA Rapide passed between Jura and rocky Scarba … the low shapes of Tiree and Coll appear, and soon a landing is made at Reef Airport … The flight had lasted an hour and a quarter. The transition from Glasgow to an Atlantic islet with a population of 1100 is striking. From the densely populated Paisley Road West and the factories, docks and ‘prefabs’ of the outlands of Glasgow is a far cry to Tiree. The aeroplane quickly links the two, but air travel has not altered the islanders. They remain individualistic and conservative in outlook. They do not care much for monopolies in trade or nationalisation of industry. That is one reason given for the present decline in island bookings on this BEA route. The present daily flights—one in and one out—might suffice for the needs of the community if the aircraft flew full, but they are said to be frequently half empty.

Difficulties in booking are partly blamed for this. When Scottish Airways operated the service the booking agent, Mr Colin MacPhaii, would send a note to Renfrew by the afternoon plane, and confirmation of the booking would be received the next morning. Now there is a time lapse of from five to seven days, in some cases longer.

From the number of complaints of misbooking—planes either overfilled or underfilled—it would seem essential to reform the system radically. What is naturally a complex process, particularly on the Hebridean run, on which three islands are served on the way to Stornoway, requires simplification. At present it is a case of too many cooks spoiling the broth, with Renfrew as the central kitchen.

Some islanders—especially since the steamer service to Oban was improved—have given up trying to get a seat on the plane; others have discovered that by meeting it they may be lucky enough to find an empty seat. Tiree’s allocation of two seats is held not to be enough. With the introduction of the summer schedules, booking agents at island airports will have a quota of seats in their control, instead of the present allocations being controlled from Renfrew. This should be an improvement.

The regularity of services, important because of connections which have to be caught at Glasgow, is also questioned. Time was when the clocks of Tiree could be set by the arrival and departure of the daily plane. That is not so now, it is said, although it has to be confessed that, in the case of the Hebrides, as air travel is so much quicker than by sea, some delays may be accepted without undue demur. Better a little late and safe than never to get there! Formerly, too, the pilots on the route were known to the public. Today, there seem to be always so many new faces in the cockpit.

Holidaymakers from the mainland will fill the increased number of seats which are to be available during the summer months. The summer schedule comes into operation on April 19, when the morning plane will leave Renfrew at 9.25, reach Tiree at 10.35, and end its journey at Benbecula at noon. Stornoway will be reached by a new Dakota service: Glasgow-Benbecula-Stornoway-Inverness. The return flight on the Hebrides run will leave Tiree at 3.20pm and reach Renfrew at 4.25pm. From May 31 there will also be a direct Renfrew-Tiree service, leaving Renfrew at 2pm, arriving Tiree 3.15pm and leaving Tiree at 3.30pm, arriving Renfrew 4.35pm.

Tiree’s popularity with visitors is increasing. The island, though bare, is green and pleasant, with an excellent sunshine record. There is no air mail service, and newspapers arrive usually long after the events they record—but these deficiencies may not be of great concern in times of holiday.

Mr MacPhail has been airline agent on the island since Northern and Scottish Airways opened the route in 1935. Before the late war, aircraft landed on a grass strip. Now Tiree has a large airport with three runways. Tiree has thus benefited from wartime occupation by the RAF, but at considerable cost to the nation, and its maintenance as a civil airport at once raises a controversial issue (which applies to all other island aerodromes that are now under the wing of the Ministry of Civil Aviation [MCA]. In addition to BEA’s staff of two (agent and assistant) almost 40 persons are employed at the airport. Nineteen of these are in the works and building department of the Air Ministry, and part of their duty is to supervise a large colony of empty Nissen huts which are falling to pieces. Broken sheets of rusty corrugated iron lie here and there or flap noisily in the perpetual wind. The MCA staff consists of a traffic control officer, communications and radio staff, clerical grades, meteorological section, caretakers of billets and crash crew. All that for one or two aircraft in a day. One estimate, knowledgeable if not expert, is that the airport costs in the region of £20,000 annually to maintain. Half or more of that figure would probably be conservative. Its revenue, in contrast, is minute.

The islanders regard it as ‘suicidal expenditure’. It is impossible, however, to return to the days of grass landing fields and ‘one-man bands’ at airports. It might be possible to find a compromise between the two extremes, and one calculation is that all the necessary work at Tiree, including the valuable meteorological section, could be done by five people—two ‘met’, one ambulance and two fire tender. The question that poses itself is: Would the public be easy in its mind if the rest of the technical staff were withdrawn? The official attitude is that the airport is there, is being used, and must be manned according to the regulation standards.

In contrast, at the next stop north of Tiree, at the island of Barra, landings are made on the beach, with one man, the BEA agent, there to do all that is necessary … Looking at the MCA establishment, and noting BEA’s intricate structure, they feel it is small wonder that the corporation makes a loss and that the bill to the taxpayer is so large.
(The Scotsman, 10 April 1948, 3)