DEMAND FOR NEW FERRY—1928 STYLE

TIREE MAIL STEAMER SERVICE

STRONG PROTEST BY THE ISLANDERS

‘The strong feeling against the terms of the proposed mail contract [out of Oban] found vent last week [March 1928] in a series of public meetings held throughout Tiree. It was pointed out that no provision had been made in the proposed contract to supply a better steamer for Tiree at an early date, and that the transfer of the ‘Plover’ was merely substituting one evil for another. It is well known that the ‘Plover’ is an old and slow vessel, and the opinion of seamen of wide experience and the general public has long been that both she and the ‘Cygnet’ are much too small for the work assigned to them. 

‘The meetings protested against the proposal in the contract to allow five years to elapse before a new vessel be placed on the Tiree run, as that period is much too long, and further they urged the Government in the interests of trade and humanity to compel whoever secured the contract to at once commence the construction of a strong and modern steamer for the Tiree, Coll and Barra service. The view that eighteen months be the limit of time allowed by the Government for the completion of the new steamer was adopted at all the meetings as being more than amply reasonable, and any excuse which might be put forward that a larger steamer than those under discussion could not effect the calls, would not be considered, as both the ‘Clydesdale’ and the ‘Shiela’ had performed the service on other occasions in a very satisfactory manner. The question of dissociating Barra from the Coll and Tiree run was thrashed out at the various meetings, and although strong protests were made against Barra being included (in spite of the pronouncement on the matter already made by the Secretary of State for Scotland that he could not see his way to make Barra a separate run) the meetings finally resolved to concentrate their efforts meanwhile towards the securing of a good seaworthy steamer for the run as at present. 

‘The question of high passenger fares and freights was discussed and embodied in the resolutions, and the fact that the ‘Cygnet’ was only allowed to carry four horses of the kind generally bred in Tiree was strongly deprecated. The various meetings were conducted in a determined manner, and only proposals which were business-like were put forward …

The Island Meetings

‘The first meeting took place at Balemartine, where the large schoolroom was crowded, Mr. Neil MacDonald, Mannal, as representative of the Agricultural community, being called to the chair. At the meeting held at Cornaig the following evening, the chair was occupied by [the headteacher] Mr D. O. MacLean, M.C., M.A, and the various aspects of the subject were reviewed. A resolution along the lines of that adopted at Balemartine was submitted and unanimously agreed to, with the following rider added: “The people of Kenovay, Cornaig, Kilmoluaig, and Balevullin districts agree with the people of Balemartine in the matters complained of in their resolution.

‘A meeting took place at Scarinish next evening, and a lively discussion ensued. The Rev. Kenneth MacKay, M.A., presided, and many speakers took part. It was made clear that the movement was in regard to the mail boat, and that in view of the large sum of public money involved in the mail contract, the people were entitled to better steamers. They did not include the ‘Hebrides’ or the ‘Dunara Castle’, which performed a real service to the Islands [out of the Clyde]. These vessels were kept up-to-date in all requirements from time to time at considerable expense, and with no subsidy to assist them. On the other hand, the mail steamers [sailing out of Oban] for the past twenty years had got worse and worse, whilst services had been curtailed to a minimum. Fares and freights were much too high and required alteration, the former curtailing passenger traffic. All the meetings unanimously resolved to request the Tiree Parish Council to send copies of the resolution to His Grace The Duke of Argyll; The Right Hon. Sir John Gilmour, Secretary of State for Scotland; The Right Hon. Sir William Mitchell-Thomson, Postmaster-General; Mr. F.A. Macquisten, K.C, Member of Parliament for Argyllshire; and Mr. Thomas Johnston, Member of Parliament tor Dundee.

Action by the Parish Council

‘A meeting of the Parish Council was held next day to consider the subject, and the Clerk was instructed to forward copies of the various resolutions to the parties as requested … At the crowded meetings, all the speakers expressed their appreciation of the valuable work of the County Member, Mr. F. Macquisten, in impressing on the Government the necessity of an adequate steamer services to the Islands. Thanks were also expressed to the Tiree Association for their efforts to secure a better steamer and an improved service. Appreciative references were made to the sincere and sympathetic attitude taken up by the ‘Oban Times’ and its valuable criticisms on the transport question in the Highlands from time to time have met with universal approval. Tiree is now one of the most important calling places in the Western Isles. (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 17 March 1928, p. 5)

The Scottish Co-operative Wholesale Society bought MacArthurs’ shop in Scarinish around 1941. Within seven years, however, disaster had struck, and a beautiful building had been destroyed:

FOOD RUSHED TO ISLAND AFTER BIGGEST FIRE FOR YEARS

‘Five tons of rationed goods and other food supplies were rushed from Oban to the Island of Tiree this morning following one of the most disastrous outbreaks of fire in the Hebrides for many years. The island post office, the general stores of the S.C.W.S, and the home of the sub-postmaster in the village of Scarinish were destroyed during the night with practically all their contents. The damage is estimated to run into thousands of pounds.’ (Edinburgh Evening News, 19 April 1948, p. 3)

1948 CO-OP FIRE

SERIOUS FIRE ON TIREE

CO-OPERATIVE STORE DESTROYED

‘Four bare walls are all that remain of the Co-operative Store and Sub-Post Office at Scarinish Tiree following the disastrous fire that gutted the building late on Friday night. Between 11 and 12 p.m. Mrs MacArthur, wife of the sub-post master, who lives above the store, saw smoke coming from the rear of the building. She immediately raised the alarm, and quickly started saving the island mail, which was in the Post Office ready to be despatched on the steamer for the mainland the following morning. Unfortunately, most of the young people of the district were attending a concert at Crossapol some miles distant, and before their help could be obtained, the fire had a firm grip on the building. Though the mails and most of the stock of the Post office was saved from the fire, little could be rescued from the store, and although efforts were made to fight the blaze, the lack of adequate fire-fighting equipment and the shortage of water made the task hopeless from the start. The flames, shooting high above the blazing building, could be seen from all parts of the island and attracted crowds of islanders who quickly made their way to Scarinish to offer their assistance. To replace the stocks of food lost in the fire, a large amount of rationed goods was rushed from Oban to the island on Monday by the island steamer.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 24 April 1948, p. 3)

After the fire, the business moved down to the Church Hall at the pier, and then to a garage behind the Co-op itself, while the present day premises were built by John MacFarlane, Balemartine. 

Comments and further information are always welcome. Dr John Holliday

THE 1966 SEAMEN’S STRIKE

Two months after winning a 96-seat majority in the 1966 General Election, Labour’s Harold Wilson was faced with a national emergency. The National Union of Seamen, not known for its recent militancy, wanted a 40-hour week for its members and £60 (about £990 today) a month for an able seaman. Rebuffed by the employers, the NUS called a national strike on 16 May. Within weeks, 20,000 seamen were out, disrupting much (but not all) of the shipping to the Scottish islands. The new government declared a state of emergency, setting up a naval operation to relieve island communities. But they were initially careful not to be seen as trying to break the strike:

‘The navy launched Operation Shortbread last night. Three warships, the coastal minesweepers Belton and Witton and the boom defence vessel Leymoor, sailed from ports on the West of Scotland carrying supplies to the Western Islands. On board were bread, milk, paraffin and perishable groceries. First call was made at Tobermory on the island of Mull by H.M.S. Belton, which had set sail from Oban. Her captain, Lieut.-Commander D. J. Bird, said: “We are carrying only essential supplies. I am acting under very strict instructions.” The minesweeper then left with supplies for the islands of Coll and Tiree before going on to Barra and South Uist in the Outer Hebrides. “Operation Shortbread” is under the command of the Flag Officer Scotland and Northern Ireland, Vice-Admiral Sir David Gregory, whose headquarters are at Pitreavie Castle, Dunfermline.’ (Dundee Courier, 19 May 1966, p. 9)

Difficult waters

‘Meat, sausages and bread were landed on the pier and local merchants took the goods away. The Belton took aboard mail for Coll, Tiree and Lochboisdale. A retired Tobermory sea captain, Mr Calum Robertson, joined the ship to guide her through the difficult island waters. Although the seamen’s strike has caused no severe shortages on Mull so far, a converted tank-landing craft is expected to put out from Oban today with drums of petrol. Before the Government moved, emergency measures were already in operation. Bread and other essentials were being taken into Mull by boat from Oban to Grass Point, and oil and petrol in barrels by puffer. B.E.A. were flying supplies from Glasgow to Islay, Barra, Tiree and other islands, but the expense of using air services was stressed on Islay, where it was reported that a charge of 2s 6d [about £3 today] was being made for a loaf of bread. Lewis Hospital, Stornoway, has only seven days fuel supply left, but dockers have agreed to unload any that can be shipped to the island.’ (The Scotsman, 19 May 1966, p. 1)

‘As the seamen’s strike entered upon its fourth day, two more ships of the Royal Navy were ordered by the Government to join in Operation Shortbread and carry supplies of essential foodstuffs to the Western Isles. They were the minesweeper, H.M.S. Wasperton, and the boom defence vessel, H.M.S. Barrage. The minesweeper will operate between Oban and Mull, and the other ship from Kyle of Lochalsh. Five ships of the Royal Navy have now been brought in to ensure supplies to the Islands. Three other vessels, the coastal minesweepers, Belton and Wotton, and the boom defence vessel Laymoor, were brought into operation on Wednesday. Belton left Oban to supply the islands of Coll, Tiree, Barra and South Uist.’ (Inverness Courier, 20 May 1966, p. 7)

Bread Supplies Low

‘In the Western Isles, with Operation Shortbread running into weather difficulties, supplies of fresh bread were diminishing on several islands, and housewives were concentrating on home baking. A spokesman for the Scottish Home and Health Department said that the Operation Shortbread fleet would have a backlog of supplies to cope with, but most of the islands were not seriously short of food. At Oban, three minesweepers taking part in the operation, Belton, Wotton and Wasperton, were stormbound. Eight tons of supplies were loaded on Belton, which is due to sail for Barra and Lochboisdale this morning. The Wasperton will take on supplies today for Mull, Coll and Tiree. The 49-ton MacBrayne ferry Loch Tascaig, which is unaffected by the strike—her crew are not N.U.S. members—continued to run between Oban and Lismore yesterday despite the bad weather. The sea, however, was too rough for Mrs Henrietta Spencer (68) to make her usual run to Mull by launch with food, supplies, mail and passengers. Also weatherbound yesterday was the Stornoway fishing boat Girl Norma, which has been bringing in 1000 gallons of milk a day since the strike began.’ (The Scotsman, 24 May 1966, p. 5)

‘The strike has now gone on for 40 days—a Biblical length of time—and both the general secretary of the National Union of Seamen and the chairman of the Shipowners’ Federation said after yesterday’s session that it was too early say if any progress had been made. There had been an exchange of views, which would be further explored the next day. Plans are being worked out for augmenting the emergency services to the Scottish islands, as a consequence of the Prime Minister’s statement in the House of Commons on Monday … In the Western Isles, defence vessels will provide a regular service for the carriage of essential supplies … There will be three sailings a week, on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, from Oban for Mull, Coll and Tiree … Up to now, goods have not been taken on service vessels on their return journeys from the islands, but the Government has now decided that agricultural produce, excluding livestock, and if possible fish, may be carried on service vessels. In addition, the vessels have been authorised to transport some essential industrial materials to the islands, to the extent that capacity is available.’ (Inverness Courier, 24 June 1966, p. 7)

The 47-day strike ended on 30 June after the employers tabled an improved pay offer.

It would be interesting to hear about this period from anyone who remembers grey warships tied up at the Gott Bay pier.

Dr John Holliday

LINER LOST

‘A Tobermory correspondent telegraphs: “Yesterday morning about seven o’clock, the Royal Mail steamer Labrador of the Dominion Line, which left St. John’s, New Brunswick [Canada], via Halifax on the 19th [February 1899] for Liverpool, struck on the MacKenzie Rock, about four-and-a-half miles off Skerryvore Lighthouse, and is expected to become a total wreck. The Labrador had 64 passengers on board, 21 first class (among whom was a lady named Mrs. Greenfields), 19 second class, and 24 third class. The crew of the Labrador numbered 94. AII the passengers and crew, with the exception of twelve, who were put ashore at Skerryvore Lighthouse, were safely landed at Tobermory yesterday evening by the steamer Viking, which providently hove in sight a few hours after the occurrence of the disaster. 

“The Labrador left Halifax on Tuesday 21st, and made a good passage till Sunday, when fog was encountered, and no bearings could be taken for three days. On nearing the British Isles, the fog became more dense, and Skerryvore light was mistaken, it is supposed, for Inishtrahull, [the most northerly lighthouse in Ireland]. Soundings of forty and fifty fathoms were got before the vessel struck. 

“Most of the passengers were still in bed or dressing when the alarm was given. The ship ran on the rock, and stuck fast amidships. The women and children, who numbered about twenty, were greatly excited, but the crew, taking their example from Captain Erskine who displayed extraordinary courage and self-command, behaved with great coolness. The boats were in excellent order, and were all utilised. They comprised six lifeboats and two small boats. The passengers and crew lost all their belongings. Life being in danger, everything had to be sacrificed. The captain made strong efforts to take off the mails for Moville [Donegal] and Liverpool, but owing to the imminence of the danger—for the ship might break up at any moment—they had to be abandoned. 

“The women and children were put into the first boat in charge of the fourth officer, and the other passengers in the second, under the command of the second officer. When these boats were swung clear, the rest of the crew followed in the other boats, and all were headed in the direction of Skerryvore. The Labrador carried a general cargo, a large part of which consisted of wheat and apples. As the boats left the vessel’s side, the sea was yellow with wheat, which poured from the hold. The passengers are loud in praise of Captain Erskine and his officers and crew, all of whom acted so bravely and faithfully. 

“The boats were about three-and-a-half hours at sea before the Viking could come to their rescue. The crew of this vessel, which was coming in the same route and was bound for Norway, immediately set about getting the passengers and crew of the Labrador on board, and, owing to the heavy swell running at the time, the operation was attended with considerable difficulty and some danger. No accident, however, happened to life or limb, and the rescue was most successfully carried out. 

“The gravity of the situation may be better realised when it is stated that the seas were going over the funnel of the Viking, while the Labrador, as the crew lost sight of her, was fast breaking up and sinking by the stern. 

“The Viking (Capt. Hunland) belongs to German owners, and was, fortunately for the safety of those on board the Labrador, delayed by the fog. Her small size also very materially facilitated the work of rescue. The wind which blew from the south-west was also moderate at the time. Capt. Hunland received great praise from the saloon passengers, who spoke very highly of the great precautions taken for their safety. Among those who are being mentioned—besides the two captains—as having taken a brave and conspicuous part in the arduous work of rescue, are Mr. Merritt, chief officer of the Labrador, and the chief officer of the Pacific mail steamer Empress of China, who was a saloon passenger on the Labrador. Among the cabin passengers were two Filipinos and seven gentlemen from Prince Edward Island. Most of the passengers were accommodated at Tobermory—in the Mishnish, Western Isles and Mull Hotels—while the remainder were lodged in private houses. 

“Included in the lost cargo of the Labrador were seventeen horses, comprising both carriage and heavy draught horses. 

“One of the passengers, [Felipe] Agoncillo, is the famous Filipino Envoy to the United States [who had helped to negotiate the end of the Spanish-American War the year before], who, on the outbreak of hostilities at the Philipines, fled to Canada … The Liverpool tug Great Emperor, with divers and appliances on board, was at once despatched to the assistance of the Labrador.”’ (Express and Echo, 2 March 1899, p. 4)

TIREE. VEGETARIANISM EXTRAORDINARY.

‘A correspondent at Tobermory states that the people and animals on the west side of Mull having been eating so freely of the apples, which have come ashore in enormous quantities from the wreck of the Dominion Liner Labrador, that considerable sickness now prevails. In the Tiree district, a number of pigs and young cattle that fed upon the apples have died from the surfeit of the unaccustomed food. The correspondent adds that a report is current that one of the horses from the Labrador has come ashore alive at the Dutchman’s Cap, one of the Treshnish Isles.’ (Highland News, 1 April 1899, p. 3)

Comments and information are always welcome. Dr John Holliday

THE FLYING AND SAILING DENTISTS: JOHN AND GILBERT CADDEN

The National Health Service, including ‘universal’ free dental care for the first time, came into being in July 1948. Attracting dentists to the islands, however, was initially a problem:

‘The provision of a full-time dental service for the islands of Islay, Jura, Colonsay, Mull, Tiree and Coll, is being considered by the Argyll and Bute Executive Council of the National Health Service. A member of the council said that dentists would be reluctant to practise on the islands until they were provided with accommodation … Emergency cases are dealt with by local doctors …. At the moment, the people on the islands have to make their own arrangements with dentists on the mainland.’ (Campbeltown Courier, 16 February 1950, p. 4)

It was 1951 before the first NHS dentist setup a surgery in Tobermory, with outreach to Tiree:

‘The islands of Mull, Coll and Tiree, and the peninsula of Ardnamurchan, are to have the services of a resident dental surgeon for the first time since the National Health Service was instituted. Thanks to a campaign launched by Tobermory Town Council, Mr William J. MacKillop, has agreed to set up practice in Tobermory in July. In the past, patients requiring dental treatment in the area have been forced to make a long steamer journey each way from the islands to Oban for each dental treatment they required … Tobermory Town Council are approaching the Argyll County Council and the Argyll and Bute Health Executive Council to make available for Mull, Coll and Tiree a mobile dental unit which, it is understood, has lain idle at Oban for ten years. Efforts in the past to get the services of a dentist have failed, largely because of a lack of housing. After Tobermory Town Council made one of their new Council houses available, no fewer than 26 applications from dentists in many parts of Britain were received.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 5 May 1951, p. 3)

Within two years, however, Mr MacKillop had moved on. (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 3 October 1953, p. 8)

By 1954 Tiree had a new dental service—one that was to make the national news:

‘Fears that the islands of Mull, Coll and Tiree would be left without a dentist since the departure of Mr MacKillop have been removed by an assurance received through Argyll and Bute Health Executive Council that another dentist, Mr Cadden, now of Glasgow, will be opening a practice in Tobermory by the end of March or beginning of April. This news was given at the March meeting of Tobermory Town Council, when it was stated that premises had been purchased for use as a surgery at 34 Main Street, Tobermory. It is understood that the new dentist will operate for three days per week in Tobermory, and will then serve the

remainder of the archipelago utilising a motor launch which is fitted with complete surgery equipment. Mr Cadden has already served other islands in the Inner Hebrides, including Colonsay, in this manner.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 27 March 1954, p. 4)

‘Next week Mr John Cadden, of Bearsden is flying to Tiree to check up on the many sets of dentures he’s fitted in the mouths of islanders. And there’ll be dozens of extractions and fillings waiting for him, too. For Mr Cadden is the dentist for Tiree—and all the islands in the West of Scotland south of Skye. He and his dentist brother Gilbert operate the largest area practice in Britain. Three months ago, Mr John Cadden flew from Renfrew to Tiree with a complete dental surgery. He set up his chair at the island’s airport. The patients came pouring in! They hired cars, in groups, and came from every corner of the island. Mr Cadden was so busy his mechanic had to become surgery assistant and secretary. They made dozens of impressions—and flew them to Glasgow. There Mr Gilbert Cadden built up the dentures—and flew them back to Tiree. The islanders had their false teeth within the week! This is only one part of the work of the dentist brothers. In summer they sail their own motor launch among the islands—pulling and filling teeth as they go. They built a surgery in the stern of their converted air-sea rescue launch. They visit Jura, Mull, Colonsay and other small islands. The travelling dentists began their rounds when a Colonsay man visited them for treatment in Glasgow, and said: “Wish we could have this at home.” Dentists John and Gilbert Cadden jumped at the chance. They’re probably the only dentists in Britain who get a wonderful welcome everywhere they go!’ (Sunday Post, 4 March 1956, p. 5)

‘The dentist will be in attendance at the Reef Airport, Tiree, for the week commencing 1 December.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 22 November 1958, p. 1)

‘Some dentists come by sea, and it is to two enterprising Glasgow brothers, who converted an RAF rescue pinnace into a floating surgery, that many Hebrideans now get relief from the “hell o’ a’ diseases”. The brothers established on the boats a dental workshop and sleeping accommodation, and undertook a service covering the islands of Colonsay, Jura, Tiree and Coll, with occasional visits to Rum and Eigg. Later, the circuit was extended to Mull and Islay, where surgeries are now held by them to give continuity of service. The service was maintained for two years solely through the enthusiasm of these yachtsmen-dentists, and the Department of Health did not subsidise it in any way, maintaining that the population of the islands were too small to expect a dental service to be supplied. But the atmosphere has improved, and one of the brothers said yesterday: “The Department now allows us part of our travelling expenses, and the service is being increasingly recognised by them.”’ (The Scotsman, 6 July 1960, p. 5)

In 1966 a film was made about a trip by John Cadden in the ‘Constance’ to provide dental treatment on Mull, Rum and Eigg.

The Caddens were also fine golfers:

‘Quiet, unassuming 36-year-old Knightswood dentist, Gilbert Cadden (Cardross) won the Windyhill golf trophy with a 70, which equalled the amateur course record set by Walker Cup player, Dr Frank Deighton, in the same event in 1953. The golfing dentist can thank his fine pitching and putting for this, his first tournament win.’ (Sunday Mail, 22 June 1958, p. 18)

In 1969, ‘A Trophy was donated for competition between The Western Isles Golf Club [in Tobermory] and Vaul Golf Club on the Isle of Tiree. The donors John and Gilbert Cadden had for many years given a peripatetic dental service to the two islands by means of a boat equipped with a dental surgery. The annual competition, played alternate years at Vaul and Tobermory, has become synonymous with fierce competition, good fellowship and hospitality of the highest order.’

Additional information is always welcome.

Dr John Holliday

THE ‘NEW’ HEYLIPOL CHURCH: part 2

Last time, we looked at the 1902 re-building of Eaglais na Mòinteach, Heylipol Church. There was no disagreement about the fact that a new church was necessary. But who would pay for it?

The first Heylipol Church had been built in 1843 as the parish church for Tiree and Coll. The rule was that the ‘heritors’ or landlords—mainly the Duke of Argyll—had to foot the bill.

Coll became a separate parish in 1865, with the church in Arinagour being built in 1909. And in 1875 the parish of Tiree was split: Kirkapol parish in the east, Heylipol in the west. Heylipol was now classed as quoad sacra (from the Latin ‘concerning sacred matters’), meaning it no longer represented a civil parish. This meant that when a a new church was required, the congregation could no longer rely on the heritors to pay all of the building costs.

The Heylipol congregation met to discuss the situation in 1901:

‘Lady Victoria Campbell spoke briefly, remarking that it gave her much pleasure to lend a hand in the work. She was sure her brothers, the [new ninth] Duke of Argyll and Lord Archibald Campbell, would help the building as well as they could. Mr MacDiarmid [the Tiree factor] mentioned the expenditure on the Church by the late [eighth] Duke of Argyll. He was sure the present Duke would do his best because all the Dukes were taking much interest in the Church of Scotland. A committee was appointed to carry on the work as follows: Lady Victoria Campbell, hon. convener; Rev Dugald MacLean, parish minister, convener; Mr Hugh  MacDiarmid, vice-convener; Mr George MacDonald, teacher [at Heylipol School], secretary and treasurer. A good number of other ladies and gentlemen were appointed as councillors and collectors. Our correspondent adds: Not many were present at the meeting, but upwards of £70 has been received … I trust our Tiree friends and others interested in the island will help us. Collectors are appointed in every township, and, however small the sum is, if it is given with a willing heart, God will bless it.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 30 March 1901, p. 3)

A visiting minister was encouraging: ‘Within the past few years, no fewer than six new churches have been erected within the bounds of the Mull Presbytery alone. Two of these have been built in Morven, one in Tobermory, one in Salen, one in the parish of lona and one in Tiree. When it is remembered that these have, in every case, been erected by the voluntary efforts of ministers and people with little (and in some cases no) assistance from heritors, it will be seen that there is no lack of life in the Church of Scotland in these parts.’ (Highland News, 10 August 1901, p. 3)

Fundraising got off to a good start, both off and on the island:

‘On the evening of Thursday 20 February, a concert of Gaelic and English songs in aid of the Building Fund of the Parish Church, Hylipol, was given in the Waterloo Rooms, Glasgow, when there was a fair attendance present.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 1 March 1902, p. 2)

‘There met on Friday evening last in Cornaig Schoolroom under the auspices of Comunn Ceilidh Creag na Cathrach [‘the rock of the chair’, a natural feature behind the Cornaigmore mill house], one of the most successful assemblies of the kind ever held in the Island of Tiree. This young, vigorous and enthusiastic Comunn brought their efforts for this year to a happy conclusion by holding a concert in aid of local funds for the erection of a new church at Hylipol. The spacious schoolroom was literally crammed to its utmost capacity, when [the factor] Mr MacDiarmid, Island House, was moved to the chair.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 15 March 1902, p. 2)

A fundraising bazaar in Glasgow was also planned (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 23 August 1902, p. 5):

‘The members of Hylipol Parish Church have resolved, owing to the very dilapidated condition of the church, to build a new one, and for the purpose of helping to raise the necessary funds have decided to hold this bazaar … The Committees of the Church [of Scotland] have voted liberal grants on condition that the new church be opened free of debt on or before the 31st December 1902. His Grace the Duke of Argyll has given a donation of £100, and the parishioners—numbering 1200 and consisting entirely of crofters, cottars and fishermen—have subscribed £200. To complete the sum required for the erection of the new church, a balance of £800 has to be obtained by means of this bazaar.’ (Highland News, 23 August 1902, p. 5)

Lady Victoria Campbell wrote from Geneva, where she was spending the winter:

‘May I intimate through your columns that a bazaar will be held in Glasgow under the immediate auspices of Mr MacLean’s congregation, on behalf of the new church in Tiree of the quoad sacra parish of Hylipol, in the Waterloo Rooms on December 11th, 12th, and 13th … Knowing, as I do, the urgent need for this new church (as the old one was failing to keep the elements out), and that, after the Church [of Scotland] grants have been made and local subscriptions gathered, there is necessarily a deficit, I venture to ask your many readers to remember our needs in money or kind, as I am obliged to be away all this winter.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 6 December 1902, p. 3)

The total sum raised by the three-day bazaar fell a little short of expectations at £508 (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 20 December 1902, p. 2). But the quality of the goods on sale attracted attention:

‘Now and again, as in the case of [Heylipol], a poor parish has to face the task of building a church, and has to appeal, and not in vain, to the rich members of the Church congregated in the cities, and chiefly in the city of Glasgow. But this, after all, is not the feature in connection with the Hylipol bazaar which makes it unique. It is the fact that the industries of the natives of that western island were exhibited for sale. This, we think, is a feature which may have far-reaching results. We are frequently told of the depopulation of the Highlands owing to economic causes, and to the poverty of the inhabitants, who, either of choice or necessity, remain in their native straths. Many who are deeply interested in the welfare of the crofters and fishermen, who make a bare subsistence in these remote islands, have for years been devising means by which their lot might be helped. It is not charity that is asked for, but initiation, a guiding of the people into new channels of industry, a fresh outlook which might entice them to new efforts, and an objective on which they might break their energies and help themselves. It is to the credit of those who are interested in this laudable movement that they have so far succeeded. Highlanders, it is found, are as adaptable as Lowlanders to their economic environment. If the Hylipol bazaar teaches us anything, it is the same lesson, and the fruits of new industries which were exhibited testify to the artistic taste and handicraft skill of the Celt, and point to fresh means of livelihood hitherto undreamt of.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 3 January 1903, p. 3)

By 1903 the new church was ready: ‘The Presbytery of Mull met in the Church at Tobermory. Rev. MacGregor, Tobermory, as moderator presided. The report on the new church at Hylipol was submitted. The report bore that Revs. MacEachearn, Coll, and MacPherson, Tiree, had visited the church and certified that the building fully satisfied all the conditions on which grants are made by the Committees of the Church. The erection of this handsome building had made a valuable addition to the property of the Church within the bounds [of the Presbytery].’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 26 September 1903, p. 3)

With some funds still to raise by the congregation, a second bazaar was held in Glasgow: ‘The Very Rev. Dr Russell, ex-Moderator of the Church of Scotland, opened on Wednesday in the Waterloo Rooms, Glasgow, a sale of work organised by the congregation of Hylipol for the purpose of raising sufficient funds to clear off the existing debt on the church.’ (Campbeltown Courier, 7 November 1903, p. 3)

‘The new Parish Church of Hylipol has been gifted with [paraffin] lamps by Mr George Eadie of Hampden Park, Mount Florida, Glasgow. [George Eadie, originally from Ayrshire, was a prominent Glasgow builder.] They are of a particularly handsome design, with wrought iron frames and copper fronts, and they supply light equal to one hundred candle-power each. Mr Eadie’s munificent and useful gift earns the sincere gratitude of the Hylipol congregation, and it is understood that the Kirk Session have recorded their appreciation of his liberality.’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 19 March 1904, p. 3)

On their own these newspaper cuttings do not allow us to calculate the final total in the Hylipol Church Building Fund. We do know that the Church of Scotland provided some funding. We also know that the ninth Duke gave £100, the congregation subscribed £200, while the first Glasgow bazaar raised £508: a total of £808. We might add to this the collections from at least two ceilidhs and the proceeds of a second bazaar. The splendid pulpit was carved by island boys and the lights were donated by a Glasgow benefactor. Nor do I currently know the total cost of the project, but the 260-seater Salen Church was built in 1899 at a cost of £1300 (Mull Historical and Archaeological Society website). It is fair to say that a substantial proportion—and possibly most—of the construction costs for the new Heylipol Church were met by the islanders, the landlord and mainland supporters.

THE ‘NEW’ HEYLIPOL CHURCH: part 1

Now, in 2025, Eaglais na Mòinteach, Heylipol Church, is at a crossroads, literally and figuratively. The 123-year-old building is creaking at the seams, and supporters have formed the Heylipol Community Trust to decide the best way forward.

There has been a church on the site—on the frontier-lands of Heylipol, Moss and Barrapol—since 1843. The galleried ‘old’ Heylipol Church was said to have seated 600 worshippers. The ‘heritors’—landowners of heritable property within the parish of Tiree and Coll—had an obligation to foot the bill, depending on the size of their holdings: the seventh Duke of Argyll put in £470, Hugh MacLean of Coll £180, and the Campbells of Caolas and Cornaig £31. (This information comes from Gordon Scott’s excellent chapter in the book The Secret Island.)

Less than sixty years later, however, it was obvious that a replacement was needed. The summary of a 1900 record in the Inveraray archives reads: ‘Heylipool Parish Church, Tiree. Front elevation, section and ground plan with detail of decayed beam and proposed iron plate fixing’ (GB 3452 ARG/12/01/324).

In March 1901 the Heylipol congregation met. A decision had been taken:

‘This is the last communion in the church … A meeting of the congregation of the parish of Hylipol was held in the church on Monday last. The [minister] Rev. [Dugald] MacLean presided, and he was supported by Lady Victoria Campbell [the aunt of the ninth Duke of Argyll, the eighth Duke having died the previous year]; Rev. MacFarlane, Morven; Mr MacDiarmid, factor; and others. The business of the meeting was to consider what step was to be taken for building a new church in Hylipol. The meeting was opened by singing a psalm. Prayer was offered and a chapter was read by the Rev. chairman, after which the Rev. MacFarlane urged the congregation to carry on the work ungrudgingly … [The Tiree congregation] was the largest Gaelic congregation in [Argyll]shire, and all should unite in carrying the great work in view to a successful end … Everyone who knows the Church will agree with me that it is far from being what God’s house should be. Since Mr MacLean became pastor, more than £300 had been spent on it, and before the Church could be properly renovated, it would cost more than that … The late Duke helped the congregation immensely, sparing neither money, time nor labour in the good work of repairing a house in which to preach God’s gospel’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 30 March 1901, p. 3).

A William MacKenzie was appointed architect. This is likely to have been William MacKenzie of Dingwall, who designed a number of churches and manses around the Highlands, including the Kyle of Lochalsh Free Church. It is sometimes said that Heylipol’s design is based on Iona Abbey, but this is not obvious, and an experienced church architect had plenty of other places from which to draw inspiration. Interestingly, MacKenzie had another string to his bow:

‘In 1890, the first [Ross-shire] County Council appointed Mr MacKenzie to the position [of County Sanitary Inspector] he held up till the time of his death … A few years ago, he received high commendation for his excellent services in an alarming outbreak of smallpox in the county. An architect by profession and a partner in the firm of MacKenzie & MacDonald, Dingwall, Mr MacKenzie enjoyed wide prestige. His buildings are scattered over a wide district, and among them is the Church of Scotland, Castle Street, Dingwall’ (Northern Chronicle and General Advertiser for the North of Scotland, 16 March 1932, p. 5).

‘The contract for the erection of the [new] Hylipol Church has been given to Mr Hugh MacDougall, Oban, and he has sent some workmen to begin the building. The church is to be built in a modern style, and will be one of the finest in the Inner Hebrides when completed’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 19 April 1902, p. 6).

‘A steamer [puffer] from Glasgow brought some freestone cement and other building material for the Hylipol Church. The steamer was beached on the sandy shore, and the material carted to the scene of operations at Hylipol. The old church has now been pulled down, and the work of erecting the new one [on the same site] will commence directly, as the masons and hewers [a lesser paid workman, who shaped the stones that were then laid by the stone mason] have arrived from Glasgow and Oban. There is to be a transept and nave in the new [cross-shaped] building. [It may have been condemned, but] the old church was rather a stiff job to pull down’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 24 May 1902, p. 6).

The ‘memorial stone’ for the new church was laid by Lady Victoria in August 1902 (Highland News, 16 August 1902, p. 3), and the building was opened in April 1903:

‘The fine new church of Hylipol was opened for divine worship last Sunday by the Very Rev. Dr. MacLeod of Inverness. The church was filled with people from all parts of the island, and the rev. doctor preached an eloquent and impressive discourse from the 100th Psalm, and made very suitable reference to the new building. He desired most heartily to congratulate them on the erection of that beautiful and appropriate church. When its erection was first proposed, it certainly appeared to be a somewhat formidable, if not hopeless, undertaking, but through the zeal and enthusiasm of his dear friend, their minister, in which they had all co-operated, every difficulty had been overcome, and they had now the immense satisfaction of assembling themselves together in a House of God which seemed to him to be in all respects worthy of the sacred use to which it had been solemnly dedicated on that joyful day. It was only an example of what was going on in all parts of the country. The reviving strength of the Church of Scotland had been manifested in many ways. He hoped that it was observable in the religious conduct of the people, in their growing spirituality and in their readiness to take part in the great work of the Christian evangelisation which had been entrusted to them, both at home and abroad. But there were other tokens, he admitted, of a more material nature, which were also worthy of being noticed … The contractor for the whole building is Mr Hugh MacDougall, builder, Oban. Needless to say, this building reflects great credit on his work’ (Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser, 4 April 1903, p. 2).

The following year, the church received a striking gift:

‘[Lady Victoria Campbell’s] ambition to reproduce in wood the beautiful Celtic tracery found on tombs and monuments throughout the Highlands has already, in large measure, been realised. A permanent result of this idea can be seen in the new parish church of Hylipol. This consists of a handsome oak pulpit gifted to the church, the six panels of which show the finest of Celtic designs carved by Tiree boys’ (Aberdeen Press and Journal, 12 February 1904, p. 7).

Next time we will consider an important question: who paid for this ‘fine new church’?

As usual, all comments are welcome.

Dr John Holliday

THE LOSS OF THE ‘SAXON’

In August 1930, a fishing boat was wrecked on the Hough skerries. These newspaper reports tell the story:

‘Stories of how the crew of the Fleetwood trawler Saxon were warned of the impending disaster were told when the crew reached their homes after the boat was wrecked off the island of Tiree.

‘Before the start of their ill-fated voyage, it was found that the rats, which formerly infested the ship, had suddenly left it; and just when the trawler was about to cast off from the quayside, a black cat, the trawler’s mascot, jumped ashore and disappeared. “We shall never go to sea again on a trawler which the rats have deserted,” a member of the crew declared. 

‘The trawler went ashore during a gale and blinding rainstorm, which made visibility impossible. The crew of twelve reached shore in a small boat. Skill and coolness enabled them to leave the stranded trawler in safety. In fact, when the crew were rowing to the shore, which could only be dimly seen, and were in expectation of the small boat capsizing, they lustily sang popular songs. 

‘The Saxon, owned by the Saxon Steam Trawlers Ltd. of Fleetwood [an important fishing port north of Blackpool], had been fishing off Barra Head, the most southerly point of the Hebrides, in the early hours of the morning, and was moving to the Cairns of Coll when the rain came down “like a sheet”, according to the description of Mr James Crompton, of 144 Radcliffe Road, Fleetwood, the mate of the trawler. 

‘The wind was blowing a gale and there was a heavy swell. The skipper, Mr Arthur Christie of Mowbray Road, Fleetwood; the mate; and Samuel Harringham, a deckhand; were on deck at the time, and without warning the Saxon struck a submerged rock. 

‘“She struck amidships,” said Mr Crompton, and in spite of the skipper’s efforts, she would not budge. “The noise when we struck roused nine of the crew who were below, and the bo’sun, who reached the deck first, at once raised the alarm.” The crew all rushed on deck scantily clad. “The skipper asked for three volunteers to take out the kedge anchor [a smaller, secondary anchor, which can be used to haul a boat that is grounded] and myself; Samuel Harringham, a deckhand; and George Stables volunteered. We pushed the lifeboat over the side, and as we jumped in it nearly capsized. The sea was rough, and we were tossed about so much that we never thought we would survive. It was touch-and-go every minute. We got the anchor fixed, but although we were only 200 yards from the Saxon, it took us a full hour to row back. I think we should have given up, only we thought if we were lost in the small boat the other chaps on board would have no chance of getting off the trawler, and would all be drowned. We managed to get back on board, and just then the chief engineer came running up from below and said that the boat was holed, and the water pouring into the engine room. The position was hopeless, and the skipper himself gave orders for every man to save himself. We grabbed a few of our belongings, and got into the boat. It was no easy job, for the Saxon was being thrown from side to side, and the small boat was bobbing up and down.

‘“We rowed five miles, and although sometimes we had no hope of reaching land, we kept up our spirits. Somebody started singing the ‘Stein Song’, but we told them to come and take turns at the oars, and this soon stopped the singing.“ “This is no pantomime,” said our skipper. “At last, we reached part of the land where there were no rocks. We got ashore pretty well exhausted. Then we walked two miles across wet sand and marsh, and found we were at a village called Kilkenneth. “We knocked at the door of a farmhouse, and a woman who answered, when she saw us in our sea clothing, said: ‘My God! Where have you come from?’ “Hot milk was given to us, and then eggs and bacon. People at the farmhouse and at adjoining houses gave up their beds for us.”

This was the third time Crompton has been wrecked. When the crew left the scene of the disaster the Saxon was going to pieces.’ (Dundee People’s Journal, 30 August 1930, p. 8)

‘When the crew last saw the stranded vessel, it was almost submerged, and the waves were breaking over it. The wheel-house and funnel had disappeared, and the beach was strewn with wreckage. The skipper remained behind with the salvage expert .’ (Fleetwood Chronicle, 29 August 1930, p. 8)

The ‘[Maine] Stein Song’ was an American college song that became a No. 1 hit in 1930 with the singer Rudy Vallée. ‘Oh, fill the steins to dear old Maine / Shout till the rafters ring / Stand and drink a toast once again / Let every loyal Maine man sing.’ The Fleetwood trawlermen were certainly up-to-date with the chart music of the time!

Dr John Holliday