Tirey and Coll appeared, at a distance, as one island, of about twenty miles in length, having some gentle risings. There is a channel, however, between them, of more than a mile in width, and navigable with an experienced pilot. They lie south-west and north-east. Tirey is the most southerly; and here we arrived about sun-set, in a little creek, so very narrow at the entrance, that no vessel dare enter it, except with moderate weather and a leading wind; yet this was the only place in the island on which any money had been expended. Here is a ruinous pier, whose dimensions are proportioned to the size of the harbour where it is built. A small vessel may lay her side to it, and the harbour or creek will contain three or four vessels of that size.

As ports where ships of burden can enter and depart in all kinds of weather, and at all times of the tide, is a matter of greatest importance to the navigation of these kingdoms in general, and to local situations in particular, I traversed the whole coast of this island, to see if some port more capacious than the place above mentioned, could be found. After this excursion, I found no place so practicable as the Bay of Gott, or as it is called by Mr. MacKenzie, the Bay of Kirkabul.* Mr Campbell, and other persons who have frequently entered this bay, were decidedly of the same opinion; but it will require a strong pier, to secure ships in all winds. The want of harbours between Mull and the Long Island has already been mentioned. The distance from Belfast Loch at the north end of the Irish channel, to the island of Canay, in the north Hebrides, is above one hundred and seventy miles; and from Loch Lye in Mull, on the east, to Loch Boisdale, in the Long Island, on the west, is fifty miles. Between these places there is no harbour, where vessels navigating the outer channel can enter, or lie securely, in any weather. Neither is there any lake or bay in this great space, that admits of being made a safe port, excepting the Bay of Gott, above-mentioned.

The Island of Tirey is the sole property of the Duke of Argyle, who draws from thence £1,000 annually. It is nine miles in length, and of very unequal breadth; but no where above four miles, and in general scarcely two. It is a low island, composed in some parts of rocks, in others of a sandy soil, which produces a rich verdure of grass, daisies, and herbs of a fragrancy that is almost suffocating to those who are not accustomed to it. A fifth part of the island is pure sand, which seems to be gaining yearly. About 800 acres are composed of rocks and moss. A verdant plain of 1100 acres feeds 2000 sheep, and the arable lands produce 3000 bolls of grain, mostly barley; of which 500 bolls might be exported, if there were no stills for whisky. The export of black cattle, horses, and kelp, are very inconsiderable.

Some specimens of marble have been sent to London from this island nearly of a garnet colour. The Duke of Argyle has a handsome chimney-piece of it at his house in that city.

Here are no hares or deer, because there is no shelter to protect them; neither are there, probably for the same reason, any venomous animals upon the island.

The number of inhabitants is computed at 2,200, who depend chiefly on the produce of the ground, though the coast abounds on every side with all varieties of white, flat, and shell fish. This discovery, strange to relate! was only made in the spring preceding my arrival on the island, when two farmers realized £60 in a single boat, after they had finished the daily labours of the field. This good fortune will probably rouse the industry of their neighbours; and there can be no doubt of their success, especially as the Duke of Argyle is indefatigable in his endeavours to promote that branch upon the very extensive shores of his estate.

Having finished my observations in Tirey, I took leave of Mr. Archibald Campbell of Mull, from whom I had received much useful information respecting these islands, and the best means of improving them. I also experienced his hospitality, and readiness to accommodate me upon every occasion during the space of ten days. I took leave at the same time of the minister, and the principal inhabitants of Tirey, who favoured me with their company to the ferry, where I crossed the narrow channel to the Island of Coll.


*  “In Tiri there is no safe place of anchorage; only in summer, a ship may stop on clean ground, in Travy Bay, almost any where above two cable lengths from the shore. Or on the west side of Kirkabul Bay, on three or four fathoms, about two or three cables length from the shore.”

Mackenzie.


Extract from A Tour through the Highlands of Scotland and the Hebride Isles, in 1786 by John Knox.